밀도함수를 표함하는 이층류 해석에 의한 경사진 해변에서의 쇄파현상에 관한 연구

초록

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also SGS turbulence model is applied for high Reynolds number flow. Marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The free surface is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.