Ikat is Originated from Hilmun-Geum of Korea Goguryeo

초록

This study investigated the origins of ikat, renowned for its resist-dyeing of yarns that create characteristic pointy edges of motif. A multidisciplinary approach was adopted, including the analysis of ancient ikat textiles, ancient literature records, and etymological evidences. This study examined shared design motifs, patterns of population migration, the 'kukuri zome' resist-dyeing technique, and traditional expressions commonly used by Central Asian women. Many records indicated that Silla's JoHa-Geum and JoHa-Ju were forms of ikat exported to Wae Japan, Tang China, and other regions, and it was found that the oldest double-weave kasuri nishiki of Taishikanto in Horyu-ji was JoHa-Geum, while the plain-weave kasuri corresponded to JoHa-Ju. Ikat, Adras, and JoHa-Guem have the same characteristics in terms of design and style, and the wave motif symbolized Silla's Pungnyu Seon, while the elongated 'S' pattern echoed the feather decoration Su-U seen in Goguryeo tomb murals. Swirl Guri or fern-hand motifs signified the act of 'winding the curtain up and let the light in', while medallions, rhombus, and fire beads represented stylized sunrays or light sources. Etymological connections were identified between kasuri, kukuri, and meng-ikat, respectively linking to the Korean terms 'kasul-i (pointed) or kasara (a reference to Old Joseon), kkury (thread in Goguryeo), and mangl-ika (make it black)'. It was clearly recorded that Hil ((sic)) resist-dyeing was a custom of Goguryeo. Goguryeo's Hilmun-Geum fabric (about the third century) featured a pattern-dyed silk that depicted the delicate five-colored feathers of a sacred bird. This Hil tradition influenced Silla's JoHa-Geum, Southeast Asian ikat, and the Adras of Central Asia. These findings underscore ancient Korea's significant role in the Silk Road network and its contribution to the development of textile innovations and pattern diffusion across Asia.

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